Calvin Klein’s Reinvention Under Veronica Leoni

Photographed by Venetia Scott, Vogue, August 2025

After years away from the spotlight, Calvin Klein is making waves again. And this time, it’s with a bold new direction led by Italian designer Veronica Leoni.

The iconic American brand has stayed mostly quiet on the runway since 2018. But that silence ended in early 2025 when it returned to New York Fashion Week in a big way. More than just a fashion show, it marked the beginning of a new chapter.

A Big Moment, Six Years in the Making

First, let’s talk about the setting. The show was held at Calvin Klein’s original Manhattan headquarters, where the brand’s legacy began. But this wasn’t just a nostalgic throwback. It was a signal: Calvin Klein is ready to lead again.

After years of behind-the-scenes planning, global brand president Eva Serrano was ready to bring the Collection line back to life. She joined Calvin Klein’s parent company in 2023 and set her sights on a revival. Her first major move? Hiring Veronica Leoni to shape the brand’s creative future.

A New Name with Real Vision

Veronica Leoni might not be a household name yet, but she’s no stranger to fashion. She’s worked with top houses like Jil Sander, Céline, Moncler, and The Row. She even launched her label, Quira, in 2021. Now, she’s taking the lead at Calvin Klein Collection, and it’s the first time a woman has ever done so.

While her appointment wasn’t based on gender, it’s still an important moment. Fashion has been having more conversations about diversity and leadership lately. So, having a female designer step into such an iconic role feels both timely and refreshing.

Simple, Chic, and Modern

Leoni’s vision for Calvin Klein is clear: modern, wearable, and refined. Her debut collection focused on what she calls a “24/7 wardrobe.” These are pieces you can wear from morning to night without needing to change.

She leaned heavily on tailoring, but not the stiff kind. Think structure with softness. Clean lines, light layering, and sleek silhouettes. And yes, she brought back a few Calvin Klein classics—like slip dresses, square-toe flats from 1999, and timeless trench coats.

Even the accessories had a clever twist. For example, Leoni turned the brand’s famous CK One perfume bottle into a chic little clutch. It was a fun nod to the brand’s history, reimagined for today.

Minimalism, Reimagined

The overall vibe? Quiet luxury. Think less flash, more finesse. Leoni embraced a minimal color palette—black, gray, ivory—with pops of bold color like raspberry red and soft yellow. The textures did a lot of the talking: brushed cotton, satin, wool gabardine, and cashmere all made appearances.

The collection played with three main silhouettes: long and slim, cropped and loose, and soft, draped shapes. That gave the clothes movement and dimension without going over the top.

It felt elevated, but still approachable. Chic, but not loud.

The Crowd, The Energy, The Comeback

The show drew a big crowd, including Calvin Klein himself. Models like Kate Moss and Christy Turlington showed up, along with celebrities like Kendall Jenner, Bad Bunny, and Alexander Skarsgård. The energy in the room was electric.

Afterward, the brand hosted a private cocktail party to celebrate the milestone moment. It felt like a homecoming—but also a rebirth.

The Real Strategy Behind the Runway

Behind all the style, there’s a smart business move at work. Calvin Klein isn’t just chasing trends. It’s building a stronger foundation.

Serrano and Leoni worked closely to make sure the Collection line fits into a bigger picture. They see it as the “halo” of the brand—something that brings creative energy to everything else Calvin Klein offers, from jeans to underwear.

PVH, the parent company, has a global strategy in motion. Their goal is to make Calvin Klein a full lifestyle brand again. That means refining every detail, staying consistent, and reaching new consumers while honoring long-time fans.

Designed for Now—and for Everyone

Leoni’s approach is deeply thoughtful. She’s not trying to shock or reinvent the wheel. Instead, she’s modernizing the brand’s roots—bringing elegance, structure, and sensuality to today’s wardrobe.

Even though she’s based in Rome, she keeps a strong connection to New York. That global perspective shows in the clothes. They feel polished and urban, but never cold or distant.

The best part? They’re meant to be worn. This isn’t just fashion for Instagram only. It’s for people who want to look great in real life.

What’s Next?

Leoni plans to release two collections per year. Each will be focused, curated, and deliberate. She’s taking the time to get it right. That includes balancing her own label, which is currently paused while she focuses fully on Calvin Klein.

So far, the response to her debut has been mostly positive. Many say she’s brought back the refined coolness that made Calvin Klein famous. Some critics want more risk. But most agree—it’s a strong, smart start.

Wrapping It Up

Calvin Klein’s return to the runway isn’t just fashion news. It’s a full-scale brand reboot.

With Veronica Leoni leading the creative vision and Eva Serrano driving global strategy, the brand is stepping into a new era. It’s sleek. It’s subtle. And it’s built for real people, not just runways.

For fans of minimal style, Calvin Klein is back—and better than ever.